Paramount has excessive hopes for “Rocketman,” the Elton John biopic starring Taron Egerton because the legendary performer. Premiering on the Cannes Movie Competition on Might 16, the movie comes on the heels of Fox’s massively profitable Freddie Mercury film “Bohemian Rhapsody” and will capitalize on audiences’ newly found curiosity in rock star tales that transport them to their youthful reminiscences.
Costume designer Julian Day and director Dexter Fletcher had labored collectively on “Rhapsody,” which Fletcher accomplished after Bryan Singer’s departure. However though each films cope with the lives of rock stars, there’s a vital distinction.
“The at first factor [about ‘Rocketman’] was that we weren’t doing a straight biopic like ‘Bohemian Rhapsody,’” Day says. “It was at all times deliberate as a fantasy musical. In order that was the start line for the costumes, hair and make-up, manufacturing design … every thing.”
The craftspeople who labored on the look of the movie embraced the technique. Manufacturing designer Marcus Rowland provides: “It liberated us from being too hung up on interval element and the accuracy of each scene; we may take it in a way more stylized route and push the boundaries.”
The look of the costumes and the units was influenced by the work of photographer David LaChapelle, along with his playful theatricality and surreal otherworldliness. However the start line for the costumes was the work of Bob Mackie, the designer of lots of John’s most memorable stage outfits. Mackie, finest recognized for his spectacular creations for Cher, “was integral to Elton’s look,” says Day, who was given entry to the performer’s archives and studied Mackie’s outfits. Fairly than copy them, nevertheless, Day — who has by no means met Mackie — sought to “reimagine the place he would have gotten his inspiration from for all these fantastical overblown parts.” Consequently, he adopted the costumes worn on the carnivals in Venice and Rio as his supply materials.
Earlier than the film began capturing, John — who’s an government producer on the movie — went to its manufacturing base, Bray Studios in Berkshire, England, for a present and inform, the place all of the division heads introduced what that they had deliberate. “He was clearly ,” Day says, “however stood again from it and let individuals be artistic, which is nice.” Provides Rowland, “Elton needed to be entertained and shocked quite than dictating the entire nature of the movie.”
“Rocketman” begins with Egerton enjoying John, wearing a vivid orange outfit, in remedy in 1990, making an attempt to rid himself of the demons that fueled his numerous addictions. As he appears to be like again at his life, it’s his recollection of occasions that the movie adopts.
Throughout John’s early years within the late ’50s and early ’60s within the London suburb of Pinner, the units are “claustrophobic” and “mundane,” Rowland says. At that juncture, the costumes, too, use a subdued palette. Because the movie strikes into the late ’60s, ’70s and ’80s, “the look will get brighter and extra exuberant, as [the singer] did in actual life,” says the manufacturing designer. The areas open up, and the look is “extra vibrant and decadent.”
About 80% of the movie was shot on constructed units, both at Bray or at a big warehouse close by, housing 12 units. This allowed for extra on-site rehearsals, which was vital contemplating the sophisticated dance strikes and digital camera strikes, Rowland says.
Music, naturally, performs a key position within the movie. “[Lee Hall’s] script is molded round particular person songs, and every is a choreographed piece,” says Rowland, whose credit embody “Child Driver,” one other movie wherein music performed a serious half. “We had been led by [Adam Murray’s] choreography, and that had a giant bearing on the units and the type of [the film].”
The costumes are an expression of John’s psychological state, particularly within the later a long time. “There’s a chaos to them. The thought was that as the surplus elevated, the garments grew to become extra exaggerated,” Day says. “There’s a level when his thoughts is crumbling. There’s a reflection of that in his clothes.”
John’s look onstage was “very theatrical, virtually operatic … bigger than life,” Day says, referencing the extravagant headwear, boots with stacked heels and oversize glasses.
The one considered one of Mackie’s costumes Day re-created was a Los Angeles Dodgers uniform Elton wore in 1975. Whereas Mackie’s authentic was coated in sequins, Day used Swarovski crystals. In all, he used about 1,000,000 of the crystals on 64 costumes and 40 pairs of glasses within the movie. “They add that further dimension, and there’s a good reflection on them,” Day says. “They elevate any costume. It’s concerning the extra, the bigger than life, and the fantasy component. They actually amp it up.”
Probably the most putting costumes for the movie sees John dressed because the satan, with detailing that hints at his interior feelings. “It’s at that time in his life when he simply needs love,” Day says, “so his glasses, headdress and wings are all heart-shaped.”